Every once in a while, the fashion world witnesses a collaboration that feels like a glimpse into the future. This was my exact thought as I watched Simone Rocha make her dazzling debut in the world of haute couture, in partnership with the legendary Jean Paul Gaultier.
Flashback to 2010 in London, where I first encountered Rocha’s designs – a fresh, audacious collection that left everyone talking. Fast forward to the present, Rocha, now 37, is weaving her magic into Jean Paul Gaultier’s design legacy in her first Paris couture collection. Her aim? To blend Gaultier’s historical design codes with her unique vision, creating something both feminine and provocatively playful.
Rocha’s first brush with Gaultier was through the brand’s iconic Classique fragrance. She recalls the impact of its sensual, corseted bottle, a mix of softness encased in armor – a theme that resonates in her work, like her famous Micro Pearl Egg Bag. This interplay of hard and soft is a testament to her deep understanding of feminine strength and vulnerability.
Today, Rocha’s designs are nearly as iconic as Gaultier’s cone bra. Her bows and bell skirts have found fans in Chloë Sevigny, Billie Eilish, and major retailers like Dover Street Market and Ssense. Her 2021 H&M collaboration, featuring sweatshirts extravagantly hemmed with tulle, was a whirlwind success, proving her influence extends far beyond the runway.
In our ever-evolving digital world, Rocha’s designs, especially her bows, have taken on a new life, embraced by the TikTok generation in a celebration of femininity and strength. When asked about this phenomenon, Rocha takes it as a compliment, seeing it as a natural extension of her vision where femininity subverts traditional notions of girliness.
Her collaboration with Gaultier showcased some remarkable pieces – like the brand’s classic marinière shirt reimagined in delicate navy ribbons and satin pink sailor hats adorned with bows. The collection beautifully marries historical Parisian couture techniques with modern technology, creating a striking contrast.
Rocha’s approach to this collaboration wasn’t driven by a singular inspiration but rather an intention – to create emotive pieces that resonate on a deeper level, each look embodying its character and identity.
Navigating the world of fashion collaborations, especially one as significant as this, requires a balance between maintaining personal vision and acknowledging diverse perspectives. Rocha’s philosophy is simple yet profound: believe in your ideas, say yes to yourself first, and then let the world see what you have to offer.
In Rocha’s case, what she offered was a breathtakingly beautiful couture collection adorned with bows – a perfect blend of her unique style and Gaultier’s iconic legacy.
