In the 1980s, a young Japanese student named Tomoaki Nagao, better known today as Nigo, is navigating the structured world of school uniforms. In an environment where individuality is often camouflaged by uniformity, Nigo found subtle ways to express himself – not through radical alterations but by embracing simplicity and ordinariness. Fast forward to today, and Nigo, the “Godfather of Streetwear” and founder of A Bathing Ape, is the creative force behind the iconic fashion house Kenzo.
From his studio in Rue Vivienne, which he juggles between Tokyo and Paris commutes, Nigo is busy reinventing Kenzo. His collaboration with Ib Kamara of Off-White for the house’s latest collection is a testament to his transformative vision. This collection, inspired by the Japanese band Yellow Magic Orchestra (YMO) and the intergalactic saga of Star Wars, is a blend of cultural references and personal nostalgia. Nigo’s connection with YMO, including his stint as a synth drummer in a tribute band, reflects his deep-rooted passion for both music and fashion.
Nigo’s approach to design is not just about creating clothes; it’s about constructing a new culture. He draws from various inspirations, intertwining them in a way that is innovative yet respectful of Kenzo’s legacy. His vision is to step beyond the known and explore uncharted territories in fashion, moving away from literal interpretations of Japanese motifs to something more globally resonant.
Nigo’s influence stretches far beyond Kenzo. From his early days as a fashion editor with his friend Jun Takahashi to his collaboration with Pharrell Williams on Billionaire Boys Club, Nigo has been a pivotal figure in shaping contemporary culture. His journey is a fascinating tale of evolution, from a student in Tokyo’s Bunka fashion college to a global icon in the fashion industry.
But Nigo’s philosophy is not just about looking back; it’s about looking forward. He sees himself as an engineer of fashion rather than an artist, constantly focused on what’s next. His partnership with Pharrell Williams, including their joint venture Human Made, showcases this forward-thinking approach. Nigo’s influence in the fashion world is clear, yet he maintains a humble and neutral stance, letting his work speak for itself.
As Nigo and Kamara prepare for the upcoming show, there’s a sense of anticipation in the air. Nigo’s journey from playing with subtle expressions in his school uniform to redefining the ethos of a major fashion house is nothing short of inspirational. His story is a reminder that sometimes, the most extraordinary paths in fashion start from the most ordinary beginnings.
