Ever wondered which fashion item unites royalty and pop stars alike, transcending decades from the swinging 60s to the trendsetting runways of 2023? The answer lies in the cozy, colorful world of the Fair Isle knit. This two-stranded knitting wonder, hailing from a tiny Scottish island, has warmed everyone from 18th-century fishermen to Mick Jagger, proving its enduring appeal.
In recent years, luxury giants like Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, and Chanel have reimagined this heritage knit, sending it down catwalks and into our hearts. London designer Molly Goddard has even made it her signature, pairing structured Fair Isle knits with billowy tulle skirts. The result? A winter classic that’s as fashionable in chilly northern climes as it is on a sunny Los Angeles day, where celebs like Hailey Bieber rock the trend.
Originating from Fair Isle, part of Scotland’s Shetland archipelago, the tradition began with fishermen’s hats, crafted for warmth with their double textile mass. The classic ‘OXO’ pattern – a geometric dance of ‘O’ and ‘X’ shapes – is spiced up with symbols like snowflakes or a “goose’s eye.” The vibrancy sets these knits apart, featuring a palette of blues, reds, yellows, and natural tones.
But how did this fisherman’s attire become a fashion staple? Dr. Carol Christiansen, curator at the Shetland Textile Museum, explains that it all started with tourism. 19th-century Dutch fishermen visiting Shetland for the summer herring catch found these colorful hats charming and took them home as souvenirs. As tourism grew, so did the demand for Fair Isle patterns in stockings, gloves, scarves, and eventually, sweaters.
The style skyrocketed in the 1920s when a portrait of Prince Edward in a Fair Isle v-neck and tartan cap popularized it. This coincided with women’s fashion embracing looser, more comfortable clothing, and moving away from corsets and petticoats. Suddenly, Fair Isle cardigans and pullovers became symbols of relaxed elegance.
The 1940s and 50s saw Fair Isle become a symbol of family and tradition. Mothers across the UK would knit matching sets for their entire family, embedding the pattern into the fabric of wholesome, conventional living. This sense of nostalgia is something modern designers tap into even today.
Emma Brooks, a senior knitwear designer at British label Toast, notes the comforting sense of belonging that comes with a Fair Isle knit. Their collections often feature these patterns, made with local Scottish yarn and highlighting flattering, colorful motifs.
While Fair Isle designs have never been officially trademarked, they hold a heritage quality that’s challenging to replicate. Chanel’s 2015 controversy, where they were accused of copying designs from Shetland knitter Mati Ventrillon, underscores the cultural sensitivity surrounding these patterns. Designers like Brooks understand the importance of respecting regional motifs and traditions and seeking inspiration while acknowledging their origins.
Dr. Christiansen points out the complexities in trademarking Fair Isle patterns, given the global spread and varying wool sources. However, this hasn’t stopped the world from embracing and continuously reinventing the Fair Isle knit.
From its humble beginnings on a remote Scottish island to the glamorous runways and streets of the world’s fashion capitals, the Fair Isle sweater remains a testament to the timeless allure of craftsmanship and tradition in fashion. It’s a piece that not only keeps us warm but connects us to a rich tapestry of history and culture.
