It was a typical rainy Thursday night in Manchester, a city more synonymous with Britpop and literary prowess than haute couture. Yet, in an unexpected twist fit for a fairytale, Chanel, the epitome of French luxury fashion, chose this northern English city as the backdrop for its latest Métiers d’Art event. Celebrating the brand’s community of artisans, this annual catwalk was about to add a new chapter to Manchester’s diverse narrative.
Historically, Manchester’s claim to fame was its textile industry, a far cry from the glitz and glam associated with Chanel. The city, birthplace of iconic bands like The Smiths and Oasis, and home to literary greats like John Cooper Clarke and Anthony Burgess, is known for its defiant spirit and rich counter-culture history. The juxtaposition of Chanel’s sophisticated charm against Manchester’s raw, artistic energy was intriguing.
This unexpected venture northward was credited to Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative force. The connection? Coco Chanel’s past relationship with the 2nd Duke of Westminster and her visits to his family estate in Cheshire, not too far from Manchester. Though Chanel’s actual presence in the city remains uncertain, this historical tie became the thread weaving together two disparate worlds.
The collection unveiled on Manchester’s cobbled streets was a playful homage to British heritage. From ‘60s Mary-Jane pumps adorned with sparkling straps to newsboy hats in peach tweed (Pantone’s color of 2024), the designs intermingled English classics with Chanel’s timeless elegance. Houndstooth dress coats cinched with gold Chanel chains, models adorned in lavish jewels, and a procession of vibrant tweed skirt suits inspired by Queen Elizabeth II’s wardrobe – each ensemble was a testament to the meticulous craft of Chanel’s artisans.
Métiers d’Art, literally translating to “master of the arts,” is Chanel’s opportunity to showcase the extraordinary skills of its partner couture houses. The event underlines the intense labor and precision that goes into haute couture, with garments taking anywhere from 50 to 500 hours to create. This event is not just a fashion show; it’s a celebration of traditional craftsmanship in the modern era.
Despite the glitz, not everyone in Manchester shared the excitement. The event’s exclusivity was a point of contention for locals who were barred from the festivities. The irony of Chanel’s tribute to Manchester’s rebellious spirit, while keeping the actual Mancunians at arm’s length, didn’t go unnoticed. Still, some residents managed to capture sneak peeks and share them on social media, drawing hundreds of thousands of views.
However, the essence of the show lay in its tribute to the artisans. One particularly striking piece was a knee-length black overcoat, a canvas for a riot of raw-hemmed, tweed appliqué flowers. This creation, embodying the punk energy and spontaneity of Manchester, took a staggering 300 hours to make. It was more than a garment; it was a masterpiece showcasing the fusion of innovative design with meticulous craftsmanship.
The Chanel show in Manchester was much more than a fashion statement; it was an acknowledgment of the importance of preserving traditional craftsmanship in a rapidly digitalizing world. While the setting in Manchester might have been a nod to Coco Chanel’s personal history, the heart of the show was its unwavering commitment to the artisans who are the true custodians of the luxury brand’s legacy. In the end, Chanel’s Manchester adventure was a beautifully orchestrated ballet of art, fashion, and history.
