Our dream destination for a while had been Sri Lanka. Recently, four of our closest friends came to visit, and they couldn’t stop gushing about how much fun they had. We started arranging a trip last year, found some inexpensive airfare and the trip essentially ended up being our second honeymoon. Sri Lanka offers everything: sun, sea, safaris, and delicious food. Due to the fact that half of the country experiences very little rain during the first half of the year and is pleasant and warm during the second, it is a year-round destination with warm, inviting people and breathtaking scenery. And it has a little bit of everything. While it would be possible to spend a great week or two in a beach town, we preferred to travel instead. We spent 11 days touring the southwestern part of the country, visiting large cities, some of the world’s best train journeys, hill country, tea plantations, a safari (or two! ), and sandy coastlines. Would you like to try it yourself? Then go through our top advice and travel schedule after watching our video from our time there. The hoppers are worth it on their own.
OUR TOP TRAVEL ADVICE FOR SRI LANKA
Be calm about your travels. I always like to have all of our travel pre-booked before we leave for a trip, but I didn’t realize how easy it would be to get around here – DON’T PANIC. Although it’s worth pre-booking train tickets if you can (see below for advice on that), the main way that tourists get around here is via cars as the public transportation system can be a little patchy in places. We used a combination of trains, tuk-tuks, and transfers in vehicles that were reserved by the hotel where we were staying; all were inexpensive and really simple to arrange at short notice.
Seat 61. Speaking of traveling, check out Seat 61 if you do decide to use the train for some of your journeys (which I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend – it was one of the highlights of our trip and some of the back roads surrounding hill country are WINDING!). It has maps, images of the carriages, and everything you could possibly want to know about making reservations for the trains. The journey was seriously wonderful because we were cheapskates and splurged on the air-conditioned train for only about £3 extra. Be mindful that there isn’t much room for luggage storage on the trains, so the smaller the better.
Plan your path in your mind. Here is where we kind of went astray. We traveled in a similar manner to our friends who had gone before, but we made hotel reservations before taking the time to consider what we wanted to do in each location. Some of the places we stayed at only required one night because they didn’t have a ton of activities to do; instead, they had one main feature. If we were to make the journey again, we would definitely omit Nuwara Eliya and attempt to spend a night close to Horton Plains so we could have gotten in a significant amount of walking, remain in Udawalawe for just one night, and spend a day or two in Ella.
the fundamentals. A pashmina was quite useful. SPF is a requirement, even if you believe you are in the shade and especially towards the south of the island (we discovered that lesson the hard way!). Snacks, bite-sized luggage, and bite cream were also necessities.
COLOMBO
Tintagel Colombo Hotel on Paradise Road is where we stayed. We only needed somewhere that was peaceful, clean, and not too far from Colombo Fort station, where we had to catch the train the following morning at 6:45 am, as we were only in Colombo for one night. If I’m being really honest, I’m not sure this is a place I would suggest. It was rather pricey and the least clean room we stayed in (also, we had problems using our cards to pay at check-out, which we never had anywhere else). You could probably sleep in a comfortable bed for less money somewhere else.
What we did: We didn’t do much in Colombo since we got there just after lunch, booked into our hotel, left to get our train tickets for the next morning, and came back to get dinner (the Sri Lankan curry was amazing! ), and then went to bed at around 8 o’clock. Post your Colombo recommendations in the comments section!
NEWA ELIYA
We stayed at the Ferncliff Bungalow. It felt more like a guest house here. There were just four guest rooms, and breakfast was served to everyone in the dining room. Major props for the spaciousness and comfort of our accommodation as well as the hot water in our beds when we returned from supper. How wonderful is that? If you stay here, choose to have the Sri Lankan breakfast, which was among the best and most filling we had.
What we did: By staying here for only one night, we messed up our schedule and ran out of time to take any of the local treks, which are Nuwara Eliya’s main lure. Don’t disregard it, though; it’s a charming pit stop on the breathtaking train ride from Kandy to Ella. The Grand Indian was just as amazing as you all had said, and Victoria Park, which was next to our hotel, was a lovely place to stroll around.
HAPUTALE
Thotalagala was our hotel of choice. OMG, this location! Although being expensive, this hotel has the kindest and most courteous personnel I’ve ever encountered. The staff was excellent at accommodating our vegetarian needs and taking orders for all the Sri Lankan foods we wanted to eat. Since the lodging rate includes full board, we ate every single meal here. We learned so lot from our server who answered all of our inquiries on the ingredients and cooking methods for the numerous curries we had for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Such a unique location.
What we did: Pack your walking boots and be ready for some tea tastings because around here it’s all about hikes and tea. As you get off the train, the hotel’s 4 km round walk through its grounds is a lovely way to stretch your legs, although Lipton’s Seat is the major hike to take in this area. Don’t let the length fool you; it really does take up most of the day (we cheated and took a tuk-tuk there and back because I was feeling under the weather that morning! ), but the view is gorgeous from the top. Some tourists choose to hike at sunrise, which our tuk-tuk driver recommended as the best way to see it. You can make a quick stop at the Dambethenna Tea Factory on the way back down and visit the facility for a little fee. I’m not sure if it’s worth traveling there just for the tour because it was brief and sweet; instead, beef it up with the walk as well! – but it was fascinating to see inside and find out more about how tea is made.
UDAWALAWE
The Countryside Udawalawe was our hotel. This place is really adorable. This property, which consists of just four cottages, offers straightforward but decent lodging. The hosts were really welcoming, and the cost was very affordable. They were quite helpful in recommending area attractions, dining options, and vehicle rentals for our next stop. 10/10 would advise.
What we did: A safari in the Udawalawe National Park is really the only thing to do here. The fact that we spent three nights here despite just needing one, or even simply passing by for a safari as you pass through, shows that our itinerary was slightly incorrect. But, because of our error, we were given the opportunity to go on two safaris, the first at 5:30 am and the second at 1 pm. If you want to see elephants, the 1 pm option is considerably superior. We saw five times as many elephants during the day because the park was so much quieter. Nevertheless, if you choose the morning option, bring a jacket because the trip there is chilly (essentially, don’t be a fool like I was). Likewise, don’t stress about making safari reservations in advance; our hotel provided its own safari vehicle and drivers, which made last-minute arrangements a breeze. If you do decide to stay three nights, as we did, we recommend the Common Rose’s curry buffet and the Elephant Transport Home’s newborn elephant feeding session.
TANGALLE
Our lodging was in Amanwella. Well, so this may be the most expensive hotel we have EVER stayed at, making it a good choice for honeymooners and lottery winners, but I’ve also never slept in a room that was practically a stone’s throw from the ocean. Alternating between the pool and the beach loungers felt like the most opulent way to end our trip because of the location, which is fantastic. But because you’re a captive audience here and because the food, beverages, airport transfers, and excursions were so expensive, if you do decide to venture outside, I’d suggest booking your travel arrangements elsewhere if at all feasible.
What we did: We relaxed throughout your trip’s last stop, which was beautiful. The hotel is located on the grounds of Quiet Beach, which is worth visiting even if you are not a hotel guest (it’s not the finest beach nearby for swimming, but there are loungers and minimal facilities down there). Silent Beach was so picturesque that it didn’t feel real. Nonetheless, we did venture outside and take a bike tour through nearby villages and rice fields, which was once more breathtakingly beautiful (although we recommend using a local business as the hotels were expensive!). The best adjacent location for a swim is Hiriketiya Beach, which is only a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride away and has a ton of cafés and restaurants close by. Café Taprobane was run by a mother and son and was incredibly affordable. About 20 minutes walk from the hotel, Tangalle Rice & Curry Restaurant was outstanding. On a balcony terrace, it served curries made with ingredients from the neighborhood markets.
